Story & photos By Theresa St. John
I cannot believe it; I adore trying all different kinds of cheese, with or without wine, meats, olives, crackers, and chocolate. I’ve been known to drive hours (yes, hours) to visit specialty shops that serve up a variety of flavors and ages – yet I’d never even heard of Waterwheel Village, which is but a short drive down the road from me.
Located in Galway, on Route 29, the shop also sells old-fashioned candy, homemade pies, craft sodas, beer, and more. However, what truly sets it apart is its specialty in aged cheddar cheese, a unique offering that will pique any cheese enthusiast's interest.
I’m the first in the parking lot, and Laurie Klamp, who I later learned has worked there for over forty years, is busy opening up for the day. I am glad she waves me in, as there is so much to look at and choose from; it will take a little while to decide. There’s even a gift shop in the back!
She is multitasking as she speaks with me, something I admire in a hard worker. “Part of the current store was first a foundry that made hand-drawn plows. It was constructed in 1839—you can see the sign over there by the road,” she points out to me.
The Foundry was owned by Frank Fonda, and he added the store in 1923, calling it Wagonwheel, (which some people still call it!!) Eventually Frank’s son Hawley, took over. The family owned the shop until 1971, when it underwent a series of proprietorship changes. Eventually, the Marvin family bought Wagonwheel and have been running it successfully for the past 50-plus years, as Waterwheel Village.
When she pauses, I ask how she came to work here and what made her choose Waterwheel, and she smiles. “I lived up the hill, so it was a nice little convenient place to work in the summer. I was happy when it turned into something more.” Laurie is now the shop’s manager, and I’ve heard some people say she’s become its unofficial historian.
“A member of the Fonda family initiated the process of aging cheddar cheese here over a century ago,” Laurie shares with me as she places four wrapped blocks of cheddar cheese under a glass dome on the countertop near the register. “We’re proud to say we’ve been aging it the same way for 101 years.” She smiles and shares a secret to excellent macaroni and cheese. “Buy it here,” she chuckles. “We have families that come in every week to buy a pound. They say it’s the only cheese they need, and the dish turns out delicious!”
I'd never heard of Amish Roll Butter before, and Laurie was happy to explain that it's churned cream with a higher dairy fat content than American butter. I need to try it. And I love Asiago cheese, so I was pleased to see Waterwheel carrying some. Not only does it have a sweet, nutty flavor - which I enjoy, it melts nicely on everything.
Here's a recipe I make all the time using Asiago cheese. It's a quick and easy dip, perfect for any party during the year. My friends and family rave over it. Serve it straight from the oven with fresh baguettes, rich, crusty bread, or savory crackers. And it's simple. Just mix all ingredients in a bowl (hold 1/4 cup of Asiago cheese to the side.), transfer to a medium-sized cast iron skillet, sprinkle cheese on top, and bake in a preheated oven 400ºF for 25 minutes. Let me know what you think!
1/4 cup Bacon
1/2 tsp Garlic powder
8 oz Cream cheese
1/2 cup Mozzarella cheese
5 oz Stella asiago cheese
If you enjoy trying different types of cheeses, Waterwheel probably carries them. Double Gloucester and Stilton, English Caramelized Onion, Fourmage, Havarti, and Irish Cheddar with Whiskey are only a few I spotted in their coolers that day.
Here comes better weather, so people jump in their cars for a nice leisurely drive. Hopefully, you steer towards this great cheese shop. It really is a great find right here in our backyard.
Needless to say, I was carrying two bags when I left that day; one held three kinds of cheese I couldn’t wait to try and – call me nostalgic, the other a variety of old-fashioned candies from yesteryear. I can’t help but enjoy glances back into a happy childhood.
