[From the 2023 Holiday Magazine]
For our holiday article, we want to make a tribute to our moms, both mine and Paula’s, and to honor both the traditions and the spectacular foods that were part of our lives -and remain with us, to this day.
This has been a challenging year. I lost my mother in 1999, and Paula lost her mother this year. The holiday season becomes a reminder of the deep family and holiday traditions that our Italian mothers instilled in us with over the years. Holiday food and family stories go together. Most of us think of holiday food and smile, as it takes us back to a time with our grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins and parents. When we are asked about our favorite holiday memories, most answers that pop out of our mouths are food related. Why? Because food elicits memories!
Both mine and Paula’s mothers were the masters of their kitchens. The planning of the holidays included making the traditions. In many of my past stories, I have written about the cooking prowess of my Italian mother, reflecting on her near magical ability to conjure up enough food to feed 15 people at our regular Sunday supper. This was certainly the case with planning holiday meals. Starting the holiday season was the grandeur of the Thanksgiving feast. Paula and I were not raised with the “traditional” Thanksgiving. In the Italian household, the visions of roasted turkeys, stuffing and mashed potatoes dancing in our heads as we prepare for the carb overload of a dinner served at 3 p.m. was not the tradition we grew up with. What we considered a normal holiday offering turned out to be rather strange to some but is beloved to us.
Growing up in an Italian American household, it was not uncommon to think that pasta had to be part of all Thanksgiving meals. The Thanksgiving Lasagna was part of the multiple course meal that would come BEFORE the turkey. Of course, we needed to begin our Thanksgiving feast with the antipasti that included a few types of salami, cheese, olives, spreads, and crackers and you are good to go. This encouraged everyone to try something new while also working as a great conversation starter surrounding what everything is. Many Italian families also include soups during this Thanksgiving antipasti course—like Italian wedding soup or tortellini en brodo.
Christmas was always the premier of holiday cooking. The best part of the holiday tradition was the Christmas Eve feast called “the feast of La Vigilia” or the Feast of the Seven Fishes. There are various types of seafood prepared for this feast that can include combinations of anchovies, sardines, dried salt cod, eels, squid, octopus, shrimp, oysters, clams, or lobster.
Let’s not forget the desserts. Though it might seem impossible that anyone is still hungry after all the amazing foods for the holidays, dessert is just as important as the meal itself. And while Italian Americans bring plenty of pies to both holiday affairs, it’s the traditional Italian desserts that provided a sweet end to the eating festivities. It would not be an eating event without some strong espresso amped up with sambuca. And when you’re finally ready to call it a night, finish off with a touch of Frangelico or Asti.
As I tell these stories, there are so many memories of my big Italian family making food and carrying the traditions that I hold dear in my heart. Take time to enjoy the holidays. I do miss the days celebrating with a large family but grateful for the many good times and traditions that our mothers brought to our lives.
Italian Lasagna
