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Written & Photographed By Theresa St. John

[From the 2025 Home & Garden Magazine]

A Summer’s Day Visit to Lincoln’s Ancestral Home

 

I love that Vermont is only an hour or so from downtown Saratoga. It makes it easy to spend a leisurely day exploring an area filled with all the classic New England charm one could hope for: boutiques, churches, graveyards, museums, restaurants, country stores, and the place I love the most… Hildene.

I arrived before the museum and gardens opened, so I relaxed over a light breakfast at The Little Rooster Café, right down the street. After a bowl of fresh seasonal fruit and a piping hot cup of coffee, I ventured back and spent time photographing headstones and monuments while walking along the sunny paths of Manchester’s historic rural Dellwood Cemetery, established in 1865.

I grew up in New England and adore historic places, but I just recently learned that Robert Todd Lincoln, eldest son of President Abraham Lincoln and Mary Todd Lincoln, owned a beautiful home in the hills of Vermont.

How on earth can I be in my 60s before discovering that, in the summer of 1864, First Lady Mary Lincoln traveled with her sons Robert and Tad to Manchester, Vermont, from

Washington, D.C., to enjoy a stay at The Equinox Hotel—where I’ve enjoyed an overnight stay myself? Robert, the only one of four children to make it to adulthood, must have loved the beauty of this Green Mountain State, as he bought several hundred acres (412 remain intact today) and built the estate some 40 years later! 

Looking at the grand architecture of this sprawling Georgian revival mansion, it is hard to believe this was a ‘summer home’ for the Lincoln family. I think the name is beautiful. Hildene is formed from two English words – Hil (meaning hill) and dene (meaning ‘valley with stream’). Robert and his wife Mary gave their Vermont home this name as it sat proudly on a hill that overlooked the Taconic Mountains to the west, the Green Mountains to the east, and the Battenkill River, which flowed through the Battenkill Valley below them.   

In 1975, the next-to-last Lincoln descendent who had lived there passed away. The mansion wasn’t in good shape, but thankfully, a local non-profit, “Friends of Hildene,” was passionate about raising money to purchase and restore the property to its former glory. 

The Hildene Staff greet visitors inside the Oscar V. Johnson Welcome Center, which was once the carriage house. There are still many signs of yesteryear there, including horse stalls and feed bins. The floors in some sections are original. The gift shop has unique nature-centric items displayed on the walls and tables. They sell a variety of items, including food, cheese made from their cows and goats, Vermont-made products, children's items, gorgeous greeting cards, and ornaments, among other things.  I was thrilled—and curious—to see several cute designs of felt soap holders. Put your favorite bar inside, and I think the felt acts as a natural exfoliant. Honestly, they were so adorable I’d use them for show! I bought my ticket to tour the mansion and gardens and then moved outside. However, on my next visit, I need to spend more time (and money) in the shop. I'm already thinking Christmas! 

Inside the mansion, well, it takes your breath away. All the rooms are impeccable – you can tell where the family’s living quarters end and the help’s living and working areas begin. I was told that 90% of everything inside is original – not reproduced, not something period-like, such as what they might have had there. Several small side tables showcased members of the Lincoln family – they were a handsome bunch. There’s a stunning grandfather clock in the entryway, one of only three known stovepipe hats belonging to President Abraham Lincoln, one of his bibles, the 1908 Aeolian pipe organ Robert gave to his wife, and all the original music rolls still in their boxes. (And it’s still working!)

A formal garden lies out behind the mansion – designed by Robert’s daughter, Jessie Lincoln, and gifted to her mother one birthday. It was interesting to note that one could view the beauty from numerous windows on that side of the home. Many plantings from the 1908 garden still thrive there. In June, more than 1,000 fragrant peony blossoms draw visitors from near and far to enjoy their large, ruffled petals, stunning array of vibrant colors, heady fragrances, and symbolic meanings of love, honor, and wealth. There is evidence, as indicated by letters dated 1905, that the peonies planted here are over one hundred years old, making them centennial cultivars. Excellent, if you ask me!

Robert was an astronomy enthusiast – and his observatory is situated at the top of a small hill overlooking the Green Mountains, which are gorgeous in the fall season when bursts of brilliant color adorn the tree branches.

Another fascinating aspect of the estate is the Sunbeam Pullman Car, situated off to the side and down an embankment that leads to the train tracks. It dates back to 1888 and was restored before being brought to Hildene in 2011. Robert Lincoln was Secretary of War under Rutherford B. Hayes and later became president of the Pullman Company. They manufactured railroad cars. This one is a beauty! I walked through it and was amazed at the details – from the lighting to the beds that pulled down from overhead to the dining areas and then the kitchen, where the porters would cook for their elite guests during the journey. There could be up to eighteen people at a time, and the porters were responsible for ensuring they had everything they needed.  I was shocked to learn how many people traveled on rail cars like the Sunbeam – more than 100,000 folks, and all were waited on (hand and foot!) by overworked and highly underpaid African American ‘Pullman Porters.’ I picked up a book covering this subject when I returned to the gift shop and am anxious to read it. I thought about President Lincoln’s convictions and actions concerning slavery compared to his son’s attitude – they were so opposite each other that it was disturbing!

The newest addition to the massive Hildene property is Lincoln Hall, which opened in 2024. It is stunning. The building can accommodate up to 220 people, and this gracious setting frames Mount Equinox in its floor-to-ceiling windows, offering breathtaking views. I can only imagine the stunning sunsets you might witness there. It’s a perfect place to host a wedding, holiday party, shower, or corporate event.

Hildene is open from Thursday to Monday, 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Each year, tens of thousands of visitors are welcomed by friendly, knowledgeable staff for self-guided tours, scheduled guided tours of the house, Behind the Scenes Archive Tours, motorcoach tours, and school group tours. On their website, they suggest planning three to six hours exploring the property, farm, and trails. I agree. There’s so much to see, do, and learn about here that you’ll want to visit more than once. Promise.