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Written & Photographed By Theresa St. John

[From the 2025 Fall Magazine]

“Sustainable agriculture is not just about growing crops, it’s about caring for the soil, the water, the air, and all the living things that depend on them.” - Vandana Shiva

The parking lots filled up quickly with people attending this year’s Fire Feast at Pitney Meadows. Earlier in the day, a summer storm had barreled through Saratoga Springs, and many of us wondered if it would affect the celebration of local food that nourishes us throughout the year. Mother Nature must have realized how important the event was: the skies cleared, a rainbow appeared, and the soaring temperatures, several days running, dropped about 10°.

The evening was turning out to be perfect.

My friend Katie and I got there around 5 p.m. Volunteers were at different stations welcoming guests, smiling ‘hello’ and talking about the silent auction table just inside the tent’s entrance. Many staff members were working their way through the crowd, making sure everyone felt welcome. There was a steady thrum in the air – no matter where we looked, people were busy setting up, putting the final touches on showcasing and sharing a live-fire-cooked meal created by farm-to-table chefs deeply committed to the local food of regional farming communities with the public.   

It was hard not to note, stop, and read the banner of sponsors under the welcome sign. They were listed, A-Z, and I found myself pausing to send them and others a silent thank you for their unwavering support of Pitney Meadows. And, not just for this fundraising event, but for Pitney Meadows' 365-day-a-year mission. 

The blackboard menu spoke to the six fire pit stations set around the outside of the tent area. Katie and I worked our way around them all, discovering what the chefs would be cooking, taking photos, and asking them a bit about where they were from and who they were in the world of bringing farm-to-table cooking alive.        

Farmstead Catering at Echo Farm talked to us about the small, sustainable farms across the country working hard to restore landscapes to community-scale production, rejoining people with the land and their rural roots. Chef Kevin Sprouse, Executive Chef of Original Skiff Fish & Oyster, shared a little bit about his career, how it was grounded in craftsmanship, traditions throughout the regions he’s served, and his deep respect for seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. Chef Linda Laestadius, of Grounded Catering, smiled ear to ear when we came to her fire pit and told us how much she loves creating unique and scrumptious cuisine for events and celebrations that happen in the Hudson Valley area.

I’ve written about Carlo Petrini’s Slow Food Movement before, so meeting Chef Nina Patrice Livellara, owner of Bakers Bench, and learning that she studied at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, Italy, where the movement was born back in 1986, was a real treat. She shared how she loves mixing the smoky flavors of wood fire with colors, textures, hints of spice, and even edible flowers in her dishes.

Chef Ryan Sodomin, the culinary influence behind Farmstead Catering, has over a decade of experience in the culinary industry. He was friendly and passionate when he shared how he believes great food brings people from all walks of life together. He uses many fresh, locally sourced foods produced on site at Echo Farm. When Katie asked what he liked to do in his spare time, he laughed. “I love foraging for ingredients out in the wild – they make the best dishes taste even better,” he grinned as we paused to take a photo of him and his assistant. He also enjoys creating new dishes, specializes in open-fire cooking, and works on the farm.      

Chef Jesse Kaufman, from The Shepard’s Hearth, was happy to be working by his open fire pit, cutting up fresh cabbage, and preparing to cook his meats over the hot flame. “There’s nothing like this, the sacred art of cooking with flame,” he says as he invites us to take a few pictures. He seems to be enveloped in smoke, tilting his face under the broad rim of his hat. He shares that he lived in Brazil for 14 years and is well-versed in the traditions of Churrasco and Asado, methods of barbecue which originated in Brazil. Now, he spends his time showcasing the Vermont farmers and their unique environments.    

This year’s total… Over 380 people attended, and we raised over $140k !!



My biggest takeaway was in learning how each chef involved in tonight’s festivities shares the same determination in honoring and elevating the sacred art of cooking every day by providing the freshest food and showcasing every aspect of sustainability with the communities around them. And how joyful they all are in doing so. 

Attendees wandered around as the sun began to lower in the sky, oohing and ahhing the sunbeams making their way through the clouds, chatting with strangers and friends while waiting in line at the fire pits, eager to try what each chef had come to prepare. The freshest grilled vegetables and the most tender meats, flavorful cheeses, pickled carrots and beets, bacon jam spread on delicious breads, cocktails and mocktails, unique desserts, the list of foods offered could go on and on. Let me just say we enjoyed it all while listening to the distinctive music of Hot Club of Saratoga, a premier gypsy swing ensemble, which was set up outside near the gardens, and The North and South Dakotas, a fantastic Bluegrass Band which entertained us from under the tent.

The star of the show was the silent auction table, for sure. I loved how there were so many floral arrangements displayed there, and was told that everything – all that stunning color and natural beauty- had been foraged from the Pitney Meadows land. The sight took my breath away; they were like works of art.

People bid on any number of items and were given colored paper flames from the registration table and they could attach them to handcrafted wood centerpieces that had been set up with the silent auction offerings. The flame centerpieces were created by local artist Caroline Declercq, who used cherry wood from Pitney Meadows Community Farm to fashion them. There were four different paper flames, which represented different levels of flame-giving.  “Add your flame to the fire,” was the theme, encouraging support to Pitney Meadows.  The symbolism of watching how the community fire grew brighter as each person contributed to the commitment of a more resilient, equitable, local food system wasn’t lost on any of us. In fact, it was quite moving.

Guests could bid on weekends away – think an all-inclusive weekend away for two at the Great Camp Sagamore or a Fall foliage getaway to the Lodge at Schroon Lake, a dedication bench, one pick-your-own CSA share for the 2026 season. Those were only a few of the great items available. Towards the end of the evening, the winners were announced, and it was fun to watch them make their way to the auction table, where they were able to confirm they’d won the prize and admire the communal flame the community built that night.

Talk about smiling faces! 

As we walked back to our car, stars shining brightly overhead, Katie and I talked about the experience here at Pitney Meadows – because it was an experience, not just a meal. We left feeling as if we were part of something much larger than our own little world, and that feeling was going to last a long, long time.